Heart's Delight

I'm sitting in the only pub in St. John's that does not have seafood OR Irish music!  How did this happen?  The live musician is playing 'crazy little thing called love'. Anyway, back to yesterday. 

After I spent so much time trying to book with the Twillingate Adventure Tours, after talking to my breakfast group, I realized that that company was not who I wanted to go with.  When I booked, the person who booked me forgot to input my credit card so I hadn't paid yet.  I had had a very strong tea with dinner so I was still awake at 1:30 in the morning thinking about putting on that horrible wet weather suit to go on the zodiac and realized, no, that does not appeal.   

Iceberg Quest, who have a boat with a covered cabin, amazingly had ONLINE BOOKING!!!  A miracle (in this part of the world), so I booked the 9:30 am boat. Twillingate Adventure do not have online anything which I may have mentioned (repeatedly) so I sent a 'sorry, no can do' email.  I felt guilty but such is life.  

The next morning I packed up and had breakfast with my crew.  While I was eating, I got a call (on the BnB owners cell phone).  Oh oh, I was going to get yelled at.  But no, he was calling to tell me the 10 am boat tour was cancelled.  Whew.  He hadn't gotten my email yet (or probably ever). 

Constance and Hassan decided to join me on the boat.  We already knew there were no icebergs around but there was a slim chance of seeing a whale or gannets.  

We saw none of those but it was such a a beautiful sunny day, and the coastline is stunning so, all told, a good couple of hours. The big 'see' was an eagle on the nest.  Not exactly exciting for me, but okay, I'm not complaining.  Lots of photos of course.  

I had such a nice weather once I left St. John's.  The forecast had definitely been more dire so every sunny day was a blessing.  But I was heading east and the forecast for Avalon Peninsula was not good. 

But first, I made a sharp turn when I saw the Beotuck interpretation centre and archeological site.  Worth a visit I figured.  As soon as I arrived and stepped out of the car, I was swarmed by black flies!  I of course knew they were a thing in Newfoundland but I hadn't seen any yet.  

I quickly entered the building to avoid them.  They are awful!  

I won't regale you with the tragedy of the Beotuck but know it is bad.  They are an extinct people now.  

I couldn't even go out to the house pits and archeological site because the black flies were so thick.  Back onto the road, past Gander, past Dildo, and onto Heart's Delight.  I had booked a little saltbox house so I was excited to see inside one since I had seen so many scattered around the island.  

It was surprisingly big inside.  Three bedrooms, full laundry.  Completely kitted out kitchen.  There wasn't much around and after my five hour drive, I wasn't keen to go looking for dinner.  I rummaged around in my Sobey car snack bag for whatever dregs were left.  One cuppa noodle, a pudding cup and a piece of fudge.  I'll be checking myself in for scurvy treatments when I get home. 

(The next musician just started.  Someone yelled at him that he cut off the canned Eagles song.)

Ok, I've got to finish my beer so I can stop living local and go back to living tourist.

...

I'm back at my BnB.  I was going to go to another pub but I realized my first beer had a bit of a wallop and I need to get up very early tomorrow morning.  Where were we?  

Ah yes, leaving Heart's Delight. Next morning I woke up to a grey day.  I did a load of laundry, ate my apple and a couple of cheese strings.  Searched for my missing car key for a while.  Pro travel tip (actually pro just living a human life tip).  Search the obvious places first, pockets purses.  Then the less obvious places, every surface, under every piece of furniture, in the grass outside, then ACTUALLY search the obvious places again.  Because it is for sure in your pocket or purse (my purse in particular).  You're welcome.  

Finally loaded up the car and headed north.  Heart's Delight, Heart's Desire and Heart's Content are all on the west side of the peninsula that I can't remember the name of.  I wanted to do the loop.  My first stop, Mizzen Pond trail.  It was a bit drippy but I decided to risk it.  It is only 2.3 km and flat so it would be relatively quick.  

The trail is delightful!  Someone has put all of these weird little knick knacks all along the path. Painted rocks, painted bird houses, I even found a puzzle that did in a gazebo.  

The natural scenery was nice too.  I saw a ptarmigan.  No picture. And a beaver damn, but no beaver.  

It was grey but the rain held off.  

Mizzen Pond is in Heart's Content.  I went back to the 'downtown' area.  I was looking for a post office.  I keep hearing about how much trouble Canada Post is in.  Well, feel free to blame Newfoundland. There is a honest to God, stand alone post office building in every tiny town in this province.  They are all about 15-20 minute drive apart.  I couldn't find the one in Heart's Content.  I thought maybe there wasn't one.  

So I decided to go to the Cable Museum.  Heart's Content was the North American town where the first transatlantic cable was located.  I want to say 1857 but do not quote (or believe) me on that.  

I was just a few minutes to get there but it started pouring rain!  Very lucky me.  

Anyway, no parking so I parked in the gift shop/gallery next door.  That was an expensive parking spot.  I bought a painting, a little print and a necklace!  And met the cutest dog ever.  She wasn't sideways but her picture is. 

So I remember to look her up.  I really liked her art.  Oh, and Baccalieu is the name of the loop (and maybe the peninsula?).

As it turns out, the post office was right next door.  So those of you getting a post card will have a Heart's Content cancellation on the stamp.  

To the Cable Museum.  All of the old machinery is still in there!  

Even the bathroom is original (well, they may have upgraded the plumbing). 

It was quite cool actually.  They have applied for world UNESCO heritage site.  Apparently, Ireland sold there building and had to get it back so they could apply too. 

Money spent, post cards sent, my heart content in the glow of Canadian history, it was time to brave the rainy roads to get to the top of the peninsula.  Grates Cove.  

Rain would have been better than the unbelievable fog that socked in the further north I went.  

It did break occasionally. 

Grates Cove was a bit of a bust but they did have a very picturesque graveyard between the road and the sea.  

Onward, now heading south on the east side of the peninsula.  

I stopped in a town that I currently can't remember the name of. It has a historic downtown with lovely old buildings.  Sure, true, but not situated in any photographable way.  Here is my only photo.  

By then, I was tired of the rain then fog then rain and fog so I headed to the highway to St. John's.  Let me see if there are any noteworthy pictures.  Nope.  

We're almost done.  I've already told you about my disappointing pub experience.  

Here are some photos of the 'jelly bean' houses in St John's.

And that's a wrap.  I'm going to bed early for my 7 am flight. I have to return my car as well. 

No one has agreed to pick me up at the airport yet so I may be getting yet another Uber when I get home.  I'm a pro now so it should be fine (knock on wood). 

I'm on in out of it.  Goodnight b'y.  

Twillingate

 I think we left at me going to be on my last night in Port Union.  Did I mention that Brad the hotel owner has a daughter who was in labour the whole time I was there.  She finally had her baby during breakfast.  

I left fairly early.  I wanted to see a it of the peninsula south of Port Union before I hit the highway to Twillingate.  My friends Chuck and Susanne had stopped in Champrey's West and said it was lovely.  And had an aquarium, oddly since it is barely a village.  I took the turn but was immediately confronted with a Y in the road.  I went left for no particular reason.  There was a woman walked along so I stopped to ask if this was the right way.  It was.  How do I get to the aquarium.  Well, drive along until you pass the church, and then turn, and then some houses, and then turn and then a pond, and then turn, and then more houses, and I don't know what all.  She basically listed every thing I might see between there and the aquarium.  As it turned out, it was just 'go forward until you see an aquarium'. 

I stopped at the pond because I thought I saw a duck.  I did not.  It was a stump.  I found the aquarium.  It was closed.  Back to the highway.  

Next goal, Skerwink trail in Port Rexton.  I found that one without any difficulty.  It is 5k with stunning views I was assured.  All true.  The trail was mostly easy but the bits that weren't really weren't.  Lots of pictures.  

Moose poop!

Fiddleheads

That took a couple of hours.  I noticed that my next hotel required that I check in by 6pm so I hit the road.  The TCH is good.  Well paved which cannot be said for some of the smaller highways.   The whole island seems to be scattered with litte lakes and ponds.  Each has to be looked at in case there is a moose standing in it.  As yet, no moose!  Brad mentioned that in 2021 there were over a hundred moose collisions on the highways. He said Bonavista area was lousy with them.  Then in 2022 they stopped having a hunting lottery and just let anyone take a moose.  In 2023 there was less than 25 collisions. And I saw a sign on the highway saying just 4 this year.  Which, of course, is all good but it shows me my chances of seeing a moose are greatly reduced.  Anyway, there are none on Twillingate Island so no having to scan every puddle I see for now. 

I made it to Twillingate by 4:30.  I got settled in my room.  I wanted to book a couple of things but NO ONE has online booking here.  No One!!  And, of course, my phone that barely works at home, does not work here.  So, I tried to find the dinner theatre and the Adventure tours. 

Dinner Theatre has a giant billboard saying 'Dinner/Theatre - you are here!'  Except where?  If you are going to invest in a giant billboard maybe spring for an arrow?  Anyway, I almost ended up in the Masonic Hall that seemed to be the only building with any activity before I finally noticed the theatre behind it.  I am booked for tonight. 

Then onto Twillingate Adventure Tours who the internet assured me was open until 8.  No one in the office, once I found the office, only visible if you are heading into town, but not out.  

I stopped at Auk Winery, only one of two wineries in Newfoundland.  They make fruit wine.  Not a grape to be seen.  I ordered the flight of wines.  I tried to hit as many fruits as I could.  Dandelion, blueberry, strawberry, partridgeberry, blackberry and I can't remember the rest.  I was sitting there, literally trying not to laugh out loud as I kept thinking about the Schitt's Creek episode where David and Moira visit the winery.  I'll try to find a link.  'I think this blend is almost potable...'

I also had dinner, the salmon and salad were very good but the family of the carrots should seek justice for the crime that was committed against their brethren.  

Here's a small world moment.  The server, Arleen, very lovely person, asked where I was from.  Victoria.  Oh, I have a sister-in-law who lives there.  She worked at the university.  Her name is Yarrah.  Well, Yarrah worked at the college and I worked with her in the same office before she retired!  Arleen just about fell over.  Took my picture and everything. 

Back to my room where I discovered that I can sign onto my Netflix account on their weird Rocu (?) tv system here.  Thank god because Roku choices are not good.  

I'm writing this as I eat lunch so I'll finish up today after dinner.  

Well, after dinner turns out to be 11:30. 

I started my day by joining the breakfast table with some other guests at the BnB.  No one really had plans.  The reason to come to Twillingate at this time of year is the icebergs but there are no icebergs here right now.  Two of the women decided, I discovered later, to drive four hours both ways to Brighton.  They did see icebergs so they thought it was time well spent.

I on the other hand, decided to just drive around and see what I see. But first I went to see if I could find anyone at the boat place.  This time the door was unlocked but it was just the ice cream machine repairman.  I asked a guy with a bucket if he worked there.  Yes but he's not so good with the computer so I should come back before the next tour when someone will be there.

 I started at the lighthouse.  Every tiny port has lighthouse.  I did a very short trail and then bought some fudge at the gift shop.  

Then I stopped at Crow's Head point.  I loved this little blue house.

I didn't have a lot of time, I needed to get back to Twillingate Adventure Tours by 12:30 so maybe, just maybe I might be able to get them to take my money!  

I got there and someone was there!  Not in the office of course, don't be silly.  They were in the bar.  But I was able to book my tour for tomorrow. 

Then back to the BnB to eat some lunch where I last left you.  

After that, I drove in the other direction in highway 350.  That took me to the trail head for French Beach.  The trail is unknown length but I only went as far as the beach.

After that, I headed to the evening's main event, the Twillingate Dinner Theatre.  Everyone I talked to said it is a must see!  

I got there at five when they opened, got a good seat and then left to walk around and take some photos.

Then I got back to the theatre in time to meet my table mates and have dinner soon after. 

They do certainly put on a spread.  I sat with people from Alberta, Ontario, Saskatchewan and Quebec.  We were quite the Canadian representatives.  I had the lobster which was very good. It came with decorative mussels.

 

Afrer dinner is the show.  It is a combination of good music and terrible skit comedy.  I would say it was four hours well spent.

I was somewhat distracted though.  As you may remember, I am lugging around a ukulele trying to get some practice in while I'm here.  I have managed a few sessions but I remain terrible.  But as the musicians played their stringed instruments, I couldn't take my eyes off their fingers playing the chords!  So fast.  How do they remember all of those notes.  It's not like they are looking at sheet music.  They played for over two hours!  I must not get discouraged.

I had read about a pub with live music up the road.  The dinner show ended early enough for me to get there before the pub closed.  

I had a beer and watched Mike Sixonate (sp?) play.  He was great.  Before each song, he tells a little story which were quite funny.  I took a video, it's 7 minutes so A) it probably won't load and B) no one will have time to watch it anyway.  But let's give it a go.  

Nope, not going to work.  You'll have to Google him. Here's a photo. Frack!  It's sideways.  I'm leaving it.  

I ended my day by coming back to the BnB to find my breakfast group back in the kitchen comparing their days.  It's a nice group. 

Ok, time to sleep.  I'm hitting publish without editing again.  This one finger typing on my phone is not condusive to my best work.  Haha, hard to tell, I know, but I can usually make the pictures centered.